Mount Ushba, rising high above the Shkhelda Gorge, is considered one of the most popular massifs located in the area of the Main. The mountain with a legendary past is shrouded in a cloud of grandeur and mystery to this day.
Meaning of the name
The difficulty of the relief, the history of conquest - all this gave her a very frightening name, which translates as "witch's coven". But Ushba, the killer mountain, is also known under another name. This name has been attached to it from ancient times to the present day. She became famous for her strict disposition and unpredictable character. It happens that climbing to the top from just hard work turns into a hard struggle for life. Nevertheless, throughout the history of mountaineering and mountain sports, Mount Ushba beckons with its splendor. Anyone who has seen this wonderful place at least once will not be able to forget the wonderful feeling of its enchanting appearance.
Description
A wonderful view opens up on the mysterious and alluring Caucasus from the slopes of Elbrus, but Mount Ushba is capricious and famous for its unstable weather. If the day is clear throughout the Caucasus and the tops of all peaks are clearly visible, then this beauty can be shrouded in fog. In order to see it from Elbrus, you often have to wait several days. The coven of witches does not need popularity.
But when suddenly the mountain queen wants to appear because of her white robes, you can enjoy a bewitching wonderful sight. Almost two kilometers of pink granite and gneiss cliffs hang over emerald meadows and a glacier sparkling with diamond light. This is unrealistic to imagine even with a very violent fantasy. You can enjoy all the views that Mount Ushba can give you only by looking at it with your own eyes.
Legend
The scarlet walls of the royal mountain became the main theme of a very wonderful story that they love to retell. locals.
The hunter Betkel lived a long time ago. His marvelous appearance, youth and bold character attracted good luck: he constantly brought prey from the hunt. Once the young man decided to climb the mountain Sabbat of witches. All the villagers began to convince him, but nothing came of them. When Betkel approached the glacier itself, the Georgian goddess of the hunt, Dali, appeared before him. She really liked this brave young man, and she did everything to make him fall in love with her.
For a long time Betkel lived a happy life with his goddess. But one day, when the clouds parted, he looked down and saw the familiar walls of his settlement. Having become homesick, the young man quietly fled from Dali. In his native village, he met the most beautiful girl in Svaneti and decided to marry her. A wild tour came from the mountains to the wedding celebration, and the young man decided to shoot him in honor of the holiday. For a long time he ran after the tour, not thinking about where the road leads.
The hunter climbed very high on the slopes of Ushba when the tour evaporated. Betkil guessed that he had fallen into Dali's trap. The whole village came to the foot of the cliff, where the young man climbed. He asked the inhabitants to perform the ritual of the wedding and funeral, and then fell off the cliff, painting it in the color of his blood. Since then, hunters have been forbidden to climb there, and Dali has never again appeared in front of people.
Difficulties of climbing
Mount Ushba is also striking in its size. The height of its northern peak reaches 4690 m, the southern one - 4710 m. Both of them are covered with a thick snow cover. Despite this, more than half of the route to the point of 2700 m is easy to drive by car. Of course, this will require an SUV. The best option would be "UAZ", which is not in vain called an all-terrain vehicle. Its cross-country ability in these places is much better than that of the famous jeeps. At all narrow road large foreign cars simply will not pass.
Not everyone is subject to Mount Ushba. Climbing it is only possible for experienced climbers who have repeatedly climbed to the top of the highest category of difficulty. Climbers have to overcome technically difficult sections of the highlands. You can use the services good guide or climb on your own.
If you decide to storm these peaks, you need to know the Ushba icefall well, because it is full of cracks. In periods suitable for ascent, they do not disappear anywhere, but become more noticeable. These are the most dangerous places, in connection with this, the mysterious beauty received her sad nickname Ushba - the killer mountain.
Pride of Svaneti
All over Svaneti mountain country, characterized by a free character, nature itself presented in the form of Ushba. IN Central Caucasus there is no greater reason for pride and respect than climbing this mountain, impregnable for a mere mortal. This is why so many people appreciate these places.
For Russian lovers mountain peaks who have the opportunity to see Ushba from another territory, from the north, this massif does not have such a mythical halo as for the inhabitants of Svaneti. Nevertheless, the image of the mountain attracts the eye and frightens at the same time. A huge two-headed peak, as a ruler, reigns over the entire territory of the Caucasus Range. And there is no doubt that she is a queen, tall, stately and impregnable. This is Mount Ushba. Georgia can be proud of this creation of nature.
Steep one and a half kilometer walls break off around the massif, along which routes of different difficulty levels pass. On this moment about five hundred routes have been laid on Ushba.
The easiest, which has become standard, way to the Northern Ushba is the category 4a route. It passes through the Ushba plateau, through a place called "pillow", and then three hundred meters along a steep slope with an ice-snow surface stretches to the summit ridge. There is ice under the snow cover, and if there was a snowstorm before the rise, there is a threat of avalanches. Along the long northern ridge, double cornices decorated by nature itself flaunt at the peak of the mountain. The ascent from the Ushba plateau to the summit takes about eight hours, and it takes half the time on the way back.
Outlaw
The famous Mount Ushba, where there are many difficult, but at the same time interesting routes, a wonderful dream of many climbers, is now outlawed. There is one very important point. It so happened that the mountain popular all over the planet, an integral part of the history of Soviet, and nowadays Russian mountain sports, is now banned, and climbing it is considered a serious violation. Nothing can be done - at the moment the situation is such that within the short southern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, the state border just passes.
The mystical mountain Ushba attracts tourists with its mystery, despite the fact that it is the eighth highest mountain compared to the rest of the mountains of Georgia. Due to weather conditions, Ushba is always different, always making an unforgettable impression.
Description
The name of the mountain is translated as "Mountain that brings grief." Locals sometimes call the peak Uzhba. The location of the mountain is so successful on the Caucasian ridge that it can be seen even from the Russian border. In the Karachay-Cherkess region, you can hear the word "yuch-bash". It is translated into Russian as three peaks, which sounds rather strange, because Ushba has two peaks. The northern and southern peaks are observed from any side and from different angles.
The highest point of the Ushba Mountain is 4700 meters. The northern summit was conquered in 1888 by Kokklin and Almer. The southern one was conquered later in the 20th century in 1903 by an expeditionary group headed by Rickmer-Rikmers. The translation of the name of the mountain "coven of witches" is considered incorrect, it was invented by climbers and tourists conquering this peak.
Ushba has another name - "Caucasian Matterhorn", it was so called by tourist guides because of its picturesqueness and beauty. With this name, they held an analogue with a popular mountain in Switzerland.
Ushba can be seen from any point of the Svaneti Range. From the Georgian side, it is best to view the mountain landscape from the village of Mazeri (Becho community), from here many people also start climbing. But from Mazeri, only one southern peak is visible. In order to see two peaks at the same time, you need to climb up about one kilometer to the glaciers.
Mountain Legends
In the Svan language, the word "Ushba" means "mountain that brings grief." This designation is often compared to the legend of Betkel, a man who was a hunter. He was lucky, and hunting game was his favorite pastime. This man calmly ascended the massifs of Svaneti, but one day he decided to climb the Ushba peak.
When he climbed to the mountain peak, there he met the goddess of the hunt, Dali. She made him fall in love with herself, and Betkel stayed with her to live. But one day he missed his home and secretly ran away. But the goddess could not forgive the guy for this offense, and decided to return him at all costs to the Ushba peak when he was hunting.
When Betkel was rising, the path behind him began to collapse. The hunter began to realize that there was no more way back, and out of desperation he threw himself down the cliff. Despite the fact that this story is considered a legend, local population still believes that the red granite deposits at the top are Betkel's blood.
For a long time, tourists were forbidden to climb the mountain. But recently, the authorities have allowed climbers with guides to enter. But not every person will dare to deliver travelers to the route to the top.
Peaks of Ushba
This mountain is different Caucasus mountains that has two vertices. The slopes of both are covered with reddish granite deposits. The length of the granite is about 1.5 kilometers.
- The northern peak is located at an altitude of 4690 meters from sea level. The first person to reach this peak made the ascent in 1888. Experienced climber John Garford Cocklin became the first person to climb the northern peak.
- The southern peak is only about 20 meters higher than the northern peak. The first people to reach this peak were in 1903 on a world-class expedition led by Willy Rickmer-Rickmers.
Climatic conditions on the two peaks differ significantly from the main climate around them. If the valley has sunny warm weather, then the peaks can be foggy and rainy. A strong wind always blows between the two peaks, no matter what the weather is around. In hot summer, the air temperature on two peaks reaches -10C, and sometimes -20C.
Historical facts of ascent
experienced climbing groups, starting from the 19th century, dreamed of climbing this Ushba peaks. Thrill-seekers were attracted by the mysteriousness and impregnability of the mountain. After the conquest of the northern peak by John Kokklin, many tried to repeat his feat, but no one succeeded. Until 1936, only 10 professional climbers reached the South Summit. And on the most difficult North up - only 5.
The path to the Ushba tops is difficult because climbers often have to overcome difficult slopes. And from the north of the mountain, only a plane in a vertical position can be observed. It is called "Mirror of Ushba". One of the people who successfully overcame the "mirror" was from the USSR Mikhail (Gabriel) Khergiani. The conquest of this peak took place in 1964.
The conquest of Ushba is so difficult that there have been sad cases in history. In 1984, a mountaineering club from Georgia, the group consisted of 6 people, they were destroyed by a snow-ice avalanche. In 1955, 5 people fell off the northern peak, 20 meters were not enough for them to climb up. In 2000 on climbing camp an ice collapse fell - four people from Russia and several climbers from England died. Their bodies were never found.
How to climb the mountain
Despite the fact that Ushba is not one of the most high mountains The Caucasus is difficult to climb. There are very few successful trips to the very peak compared to unsuccessful attempts. This is due to the increased difficulty on the ascent scale of 6 points. The northern peak is rated 4A-6A in difficulty, and the South has an extremely difficult mark of 5A-6A.
To climb the mountain, you can consider all the routes, of which there are more than five. But most of them are considered extremely difficult, especially for beginners it is better not to start with them. Most proven paths:
- The northeast ridge with a mark of 4A belongs to the classic routes. The northern peak can be reached through the Ushba pass and complex logging. The hike up can take from 8 to 20 hours, it all depends on the experience and fitness of the group. Back from the mountain there are two options - to go down through the same pass or through the Ushba pillow. You can approach this path only from Georgia, there is no road from the Russian Federation. The border to Ushba is closed, and crossing it is considered a serious violation of the law. Recently, there was a strong ice collapse on the Russian side, through which no one will be able to get through. Therefore, now you can go to the route through Mestia (a small village).
- The route through the South Face of difficulty 5B is considered one of the most difficult to climb. But to climb the southern peak, this is the best option. Climbers will have to go along the road opened by Mikhail Khergiani. Then you need to climb the South-West ridge. Further, it is even more difficult - you need to overcome the "mirror" of Ushba and go down to the village of Gul. The whole way to the peak and back down in time takes about two days. A person without climbing training will not be able to climb this road. The coherence of the group, excellent physical preparation, and the ability to use equipment are important here.
Beginning climbers are advised to practice before climbing Ushba. For example, for starters, you can get to the top of Kazbek or Laila. Experienced climbers prefer complicated routes - along the wall from the East. Also, professionals often climb the east or west ridges, or through the icefalls near the northwest face.
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Conclusion
The great risk and the maximum expenditure of energy, the dangerous climb are worth those unforgettable minutes on the top of the Ushba mountain. Regardless of which peak the climber managed to climb, happiness from being at the top, freedom and the mighty spirit of the Caucasus can be fully felt there - on the Ushba peak.
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Ushba, Samegrelo-Upper Svaneti, Georgia
Unapproachable and wayward, majestic and proud, the true queen of the Caucasus - all these epithets refer to majestic grief Ushba, which has been called the legend of international mountaineering for many years. Due to unstable weather conditions and a steep profile, the peak is considered one of the most difficult to climb among the Caucasus ranges and is only conquered by experienced climbers. In our article, we will talk in detail about the height of Ushba, its two-headed peak, the category of difficulty and climbing routes, which will allow desperate daredevils to evaluate their own strengths and make a decision regarding climbing the mountain.
Height and peaks of Ushba
Mount Ushba (or Uzhba) rises in the middle of the Ushba plateau, located in mountain system Greater Caucasus at an altitude of 4000 meters. Geographically, it belongs to Samegrelo-Upper Svaneti and is located at a distance of 1.5 km from Russian border. 10 km southeast of the peak stretches the cozy village of Mestia, from where the ascents begin not only to Ushba, but to the neighboring peaks - Shkhara and Dzhangi-Tau.
Unlike the surrounding mountain ranges, Ushba has a double peak, the slopes of which break off with steep 1.5-kilometer red granite walls:
- The northern peak rises to 4690 m above sea level. It was first conquered by climber John Garford Cocklin, who climbed to the very top in 1888.
- The southern peak is 20 meters higher than the northern one. He submitted to people in 1903, when an international expedition led by Willy Rickmer-Rickmers managed to climb its slopes.
A feature of the peak is its microclimate, which does not obey the general climatic rules. Even when the weather is clear and dry in the valley, the Ushba peaks are hidden in clouds and fog, and it is always windy on the bridge between the two heads, regardless of the general air currents. IN summer time the average air temperature at altitudes above 3000 m often drops to -10 ... -20 ° C.
Legend of Ushba
The name Ushba is translated from the Svan language as "a mountain that brings troubles." This name is often associated with the legend of the hunter Betkel, who easily conquered the massifs of Svaneti in search of game and one day decided to go to the top of Ushba. Climbing the mountain, he met the goddess of hunting Dali, who bewitched the brave guy and left him to live with her. Over time, Betkel became homesick and secretly returned to his village under cover of night.
Not forgiving the young man for such an act, Dali again lured him to Ushba during the hunt. Chasing the mountain tour, Betkel climbed to the top, and the road behind him collapsed and broke off. When the hunter realized that there was no turning back, he rushed down the cliff, staining Ushba with his scarlet blood. Although this story is just a legend, the locals believe that the granite walls of the summit owe their red color to Betkel's blood. For a long time the mountain was closed to the public, but even today not every guide decides to deliver climbers to the routes of its ascent.
The history of climbing Mount Ushba
The beauty and difficulty of climbing Ushba has been stirring the hearts of climbers since the 19th century. After its North Peak was conquered by John Kokklin, many daredevils tried to climb up, but not all ascents were crowned with success. From 1888 to 1936, only 10 climbers climbed the South Peak, and even fewer climbed the North Peak - only 5.
The complexity of the ascent lies in the fact that there are many steep slopes on the way, and with north side there is also a completely vertical plane, which climbers call the “mirror of Ushba”. Among the first brave athletes, the famous Soviet mountaineer Mikhail (Gabriel) Khergiani, who conquered the peak in 1964, was able to pass this "mirror". IN different years famous climbers Mikhail Anufrikov, Lev Myshlyaev, Gio Niguriani climbed the mountain.
It is worth noting that many ascents to Ushba ended tragically. In 1984, a team of 6 climbers from the Georgian Alpine Club remained under an avalanche, and in 1995, 20 meters from the exit to the crest of the Northern Peak, 5 athletes from the Primorsky Territory team fell off the rocks. In February 2000, an ice collapse covered the camp where four Russians from Pyatigorsk and several residents of England stayed for the night. Their bodies were never found.
Climbing routes and difficulty category
Although the height of 4710 meters is not considered an obstacle for climbers, and the mountain itself is not among the ten highest in the Caucasus, the number of successful ascents of it is extremely small. This circumstance is explained by the waywardness of Ushba and the high category of difficulty on a 6-point scale. More favorable to climbers is the North Peak, the difficulty of which is estimated from 4A to 6A. It is more difficult to climb the South Peak, which has a level of 5A to 6A (“extremely difficult”).
More than five dozen routes lead to the top of Mount Ushba, varying in difficulty category, degree of physical activity and level of possible risk. The most popular and often passable are two of them:
Along the Northeast Ridge (4A)
The easiest route, called the classics of Soviet mountaineering. The ascent leads to the Northern Peak through the Ushbinsky Pass and icefalls of medium difficulty with many cracks. Depending on technical training and weather conditions, the average climbing time is from 8 to 16 hours. The return descent is carried out to the Ushbinsky pass or the Pillow of Ushba.
Approach to the route is possible only from Georgia, since there are no options from Russia - the border is locked, and attempts to climb Ushba are considered a crime under Russian law. In addition, in recent years there has been a strong collapse of the Ushba icefall, through which it was previously possible to get to the mountain. Therefore, today the only possible way along the route is through the village of Mestia.
Along the South wall (5B)
More difficult route, but the easiest of all possible ascents to the South Peak. When climbing, climbers follow the path of Mikhail Khergiani with an ascent to the crest of the South-Western buttress, passing the “mirror” of Ushba and then descending to the Gulsky camps near the settlement of Gul. On average, the round trip takes 2 days.
Climbing the route is notable for its technical complexity, it requires coordinated actions in a group, perfect discipline, as well as mastering the skills of insurance and movement in conditions mountainous terrain. Before climbing, climbers are advised to go through an acclimatization ascent to Kazbek or Laila, which allows them to get used to the ice and hone their crampon walking skills.
Some climbers also use other, harder paths - along the East Face, the center of the Northeast Face, the East or West Ridge, the icefalls of the Northwest Face. Despite the great risks and heavy physical exertion, climbing Ushba is worth the effort, because there is no more joyful moment for a climber than to be at the end of a difficult path and take in the boundless expanses of the mighty Caucasus with one glance.
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In terms of the number of poetic nicknames, Mount Ushba can easily compete with the first beauties of Georgia. “The talisman of Svaneti”, “the queen of the Main Caucasian ridge”, “the mountain that remembers the loving look of Tamerlane” - this is far from complete list titles from admiring admirers.
The legendary Ushba is located in the fabulously beautiful region of Georgia - Upper Svaneti. A steep granite profile, the presence of two peaks (North and South), glaciers sliding down make one of the main mountains of Svaneti impregnable. The northern peak has a mark of 4690 meters above sea level, and the southern one - 4710 m.
This height is by no means an obstacle for climbers, Mount Ushba does not even fall into the top ten highest in the Caucasus. Then why is the number of successful climbs on it extremely small? The rebellious beauty is very capricious. Professionals rate the climbing difficulty on a six-point scale as 4A (“difficult level”) and 6A (“extremely difficult level”). The northern peak is considered more favorable to the conquerors of heights than the southern one. In any case, both peaks will require colossal professionalism and serious physical preparation from the daredevils.
Ascents from Russia to Mount Ushba are generally prohibited by law. However, having gone to, you may well get to know the Caucasian two-horned beauty in person. Climbing such difficult and life-threatening routes is not at all necessary. You can simply settle in a nearby Svan settlement, take advantage of their hospitality and listen to a beautiful legend about the “Mountain that brings misfortune”. That is what the locals call Ushba. In their language, "ush" means "trouble."
Legend of Ushba
Families from generation to generation pass on the story of a fearless hunter named Betkil. He easily conquered the mountains of Svaneti in search of game. Inspired by his own successes, Betkil once ventured up the Ushba. At the top he was met by the goddess of mountains and hunting - Dali. She really liked the strong and courageous Svan. Dali bewitched him and left him to live. Over time, Betkil yearned for home, relatives and the beautiful bride that was waiting for him below. At night, the young man secretly left Dali and returned to his village. The goddess could not forgive the refusal of a mere mortal and lured Betkil to the slopes of Ushba by cunning. He enthusiastically ran after the huge tour sent by Dali, and the road behind the young man was cut off step by step. Realizing that there was no way back, Betkil rushed down and died, staining Ushba with scarlet blood. And although this is just a legend, and the slopes owe their color to red granite, it is very difficult to find a guide to the Witch Mountain among the locals.
There is another story about Ushba among climbers. It is not at all dramatic and more modern. Georgians remember how in 1903 Prince Dadeshkeliani gave famous mountain climber from the Rickmers expedition. The Svans were indignant, because it is not worthwhile to give the beauty of the homeland to strangers. To this, the reasonable prince replied that Ushba, as she was in place, remained, and the woman was pleased \u003d)).
The peculiarities of the mountain itself can be safely attributed to its unusual microclimate. Weather phenomena here are absolutely not subordinated. general rules. While the weather in the valley is sunny and clear, Ushba can hide behind dense fog or clouds for days. And between the two ridges there is a jumper, which is called a "pipe" - it is always windy in this place, regardless of the general air flow.
The northern peak of the mountain was conquered only in 1888, the southern height was taken 15 years later - in 1903. One of the most famous pioneers on Ushba was a native of Georgia, Mikhail Khergiani. His route is still used today.
So, if you are lucky enough to go to, be sure to treat yourself to the joy of seeing one of the most beautiful and famous peaks in the world. You may not reach the peaks, but the experience will undoubtedly become unforgettable.
One of the most mysterious and beautiful sights of the Greater Caucasus is Mount Ushba, translated as "witch's coven". Everyone who has ever seen this miracle will never forget the indelible impression that her majestic beauty leaves. Ushba is located in one region of Georgia - Upper Svaneti, at a distance of one and a half kilometers south of the Russian Kabardino-Balkaria.
Right at the bottom picturesque mountain there is a small settlement of Mestia, but you cannot see the attraction from it. The residents of the village are blocked great view hill overgrown with forest.
The beauty of the witches' haven
The mysterious and magnificent landmark of the Caucasus offers a beautiful view from the slopes of Elbrus, but Mount Ushba is quite capricious and is characterized by unstable and bad weather. Even when throughout the Caucasus there is a stable ideal conditions and you can see the tops of all the peaks of the beauty can be shrouded in clouds. To see it from Elbrus, sometimes you have to wait more than one day. The coven of witches does not need publicity.
But if the beauty decides to appear from behind the covers of the clouds, a striking frightening and delightful view opens up. More than two kilometers of pink rocks made of granite and gneiss hang over emerald meadows and a glacier waving with diamond shine. It is impossible to imagine even with the wildest imagination. The only way to comprehend all the beauties of Mount Ushba is to see it with your own eyes.
The legend of the bloody walls of the mountain of the killer Ushba
The red walls and the splendor of the mountain have become the basis of a very beautiful legend that the surrounding residents love to tell.
Once upon a time there lived a hunter Betkel. His youth, beauty and courage could even attract good luck, he always brought prey after the hunt. One day he decided to climb the mountain "coven of witches". All the neighbors began to dissuade him, but they could not convince him. When the young man approached the glacier, the Georgian goddess of hunting Dali came out to meet him, she liked the handsome man and she decided to bewitch him.
For many months Betkel lived happily with his goddess, but one day, when the fog of the mountain cleared, he looked down and saw the native walls of his village. He secretly left Dali. In the village he met the most beautiful woman in Svaneti and decided to marry her. A wild tour descended to the wedding feast, and the hunter decided to kill him in honor of the holiday. He chased the tour for a long time, not noticing how the path disappears under his feet.
The hunter climbed high enough on the slopes of Ushba, when the tour disappeared, he realized that he had fallen into Dali's trap. All the villagers gathered at the foot of the cleft, where Betkil got stuck, then he asked the inhabitants to perform the rites of the wedding and funeral, and then threw himself off the cliff, painting it in the color of his blood. The mountain became forbidden for hunters, and Dali stopped showing himself to people.
Forward to the top
Ushba is a mountain so high that its peaks are covered with snow, 4600 meters. Despite this, more than half way to her highest point 2700 meters can be driven by car. True, you will need a good SUV, best of all, an UAZ, which is not for nothing called an all-terrain vehicle, in this situation it is much more useful than the vaunted Jeeps. On a road that is too narrow, wide imported cars simply cannot squeeze through.
Further ascent to the summit is possible only for experienced climbers who have already climbed the peaks of the IV-V category of difficulty. Participants have to overcome technically difficult sections of the highlands. You can use the services of an experienced guide or rely on yourself.
With an independent assault on the summit, it is worth remembering that the Ushba icefall is replete with cracks. In years favorable for ascent, they do not disappear anywhere, they simply become more visible. These are very dangerous areas, perhaps thanks to them the mysterious beauty received the gloomy nickname Ushba - the mountain of killers.
Climbing history
Conquest mysterious mountain fully justifies old legend Svanov. For the period 1888-1936, for south summit Only ten climbers managed to climb Ushba, and only five were able to conquer the southern one. Despite the fact that more than 60 athletes tried to storm the peaks of the beauty. Many of them ended tragically.
In 1960, two Englishmen tried to climb the top of Ushba. Some were looking for guides, but none of the Svans wanted to enter Dali's possessions. Only one of the hunters was persuaded to lead the British along the snow-covered slopes and steep cliffs. They managed to climb Ushba, but one of the athletes died on the way back.
